This is an attempt at chronicling our wayward adventures through South America. We have been somewhat lazy up to this point, so this will be an (un)chronological account of these travels as we catch up to the present.
Showing posts with label Choclo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Choclo. Show all posts

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Food, Food, Food

So, I really like eating. And I spend much of each day dreaming about the food I might presently, or some time in the distant future, be eating. It therefore seems only fair that I attempt to channel some of this enthusiasm into explaining some of the exciting delicious items we get to consume down here.

Obviously, out of all the cuisines floating around South America, I am most familiar with Ecuadorian/Northern Andean. So in Quito, I had some very specific cravings that needed to be fulfilled, and some old haunts to visit to do it.

One of my favorite places to eat in the Mariscal is Kallari, especially for breakfast. It's run by a sustainable indigenous cooperative based in the Ecuadorian Amazon. They make delicious delicious dark chocolate, which is awesome 1) because it can be really hard to find decent chocolate around here sometimes, and 2) because although Ecuador is home to some of the best cacao in the world, most large-scale chocolate production isn't controlled by Ecuadorians. The Ecuadorian beans get sent elsewhere to be processed, packaged, etc., and then the chocolate has to be imported back into Ecuador, and they don't really get much out of the profits. Kallari is really exciting because they grow, harvest, produce, and sell their own stuff. And it's really good.
Anyway, their little cafe in Quito has these great breakfast deals, which always create this horrible dilemma: you can get hot chocolate made with their homegrown stuff kind of melted into hot milk, or you can get juice. And you have to pick.

Juice is maybe the very best part of Ecuadorian food. They have about a zillion fruits to choose from, and all the juice is fresh-squeezed, and it's just amazingly good. And you can get juice made out of strawberries,


which Peter did, and it's in that gigantic glass. Just think about how many strawberries got mushed to make that. Yum. Also we got some standard USA breakfasty items, which is somewhat of a rare thing. Most South Americans eat breakfast of rolls and jam, or sometimes cheese, and instant coffee or tea.

Besides empanadas, which I insisted on eating for pretty much every other meal, what I really couldn't leave Quito without was locro de queso. Soups are another of my favoritist aspects of Ecuadorian cuisine, and locro is my favorite of all the soups. It's kind of a creamy potato soup with chunks of queso fresco (cheese) and potato, and with big ol' slices of avocado on top. I made Peter and Dan go on a locro hunt with me, with excellent results:


Seriously, so good. It's over there on the right. You can also see some empanadas, fried pockets with pretty much whatever you want stuffed inside. The one in front of Dan is an empanada de morocho, which means that the outside is made with morocho, a kind of maize. The red stuff in that little bowl in the center of the table is ají, spicy sauce that's often homemade, and unique to each eatery. Way better than ketchup.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Lameness, then Redemption!

I. Lameness

Okay, so we already have a little preliminary, excuse-making, caveat section here at the very top of the blog, but by my watch (an artifact that I do not own) it has been a ridiculous amount of time since we posted anything here, and it's beginning to look as if we've faked the whole thing and are still somewhere between the hotel and JFK painstakingly photoshopping ourselves into other people's vacation pictures scavenged from google images. Thus, here I am, dear reader, to assure one and all that this is not the case, and to stir things up with a shiny new post.

The problem with posting is not currently a lack of material, as we have been scribbling things more or less ferociously at quite respectable intervals into our respective notebooks. The problem is even conceptualizing the difference between where we are now and where we were when last something was posted, not that that date has any particular correspondence to the space-time coordinates of what was actually posted about.

Also, something must be said regarding our current proximity to the singularity. Remember how in 2007 TIME magazine made "You" the person of the year thanks to the rise of a fancy little service allowing every bit of video anyone ever shot to be uploaded, indexed and compared by everyone? We are dreadfully far away from anything like this video+internet phenomenon, we are practically dialing up, we are tantamount to climbing the highest hill available in our given location (in Buenos Aires this would mean taking an elevator to the top of a large building) and morse coding these entries home via laser pointer. Therefore, much of the really tasty meat of the vacation (forgive me, I've been eating way too much grassfed beef), the video archive, will remain unseen perhaps until we return. Something to look forward to.

I believe when last you were spoken to, our story took place somewhere in Ecuador, and our physical presence was already two countries past that in Argentina. We are still in Argentina, and have a couple more days before we head off toward what I can only think to describe as an uncomfortable disaster tour of Chile, providing it does not simply slough off into the Pacific in the next few hours. I'm sure we'll have a good six days.

II. Redemption

Directly following the events described in previous installations of TrotamundosSA.blogspot.com, we spent another day in Quito. Miriam and I rose, somewhat groggy from a late-in-the-evening conversation fueled by not small amounts of cheap beer, packed and waited for friendly co-traveler Dan to return from some mildly dehumanizing bit of national, paper-gathering, bureaucratic nonsense. Apparently the Ecuador model for these sorts of goings-on is designed to function something like a scavenger-hunt with extremely vague goals and extremely rigid and unpredictable windows of opportunity, and after something like four hours, we paid Dan's share and checked out, hoping that he would eventually make it back to the neighborhood. Which he did, having completely failed to obtain the particular bits of paper necessary to appease the great mechanistic god of international relations.

To compensate for this upset, we got some delicious foods


including the first corn that I have really enjoyed in years (choclo), the weirdest and most erratically filled tamale I've ever tasted, and some downright panaceic mate de coca. Bolstered by our meal, we shared a little internet time and then parted ways. Dan headed out to try to find a peanut butter sandwich or something and Miriam and I began our quest to find buses to Peru.

And that's pretty much how the day went, looking for tickets, deciding that said tickets were far too expensive, searching for different tickets, more direct routes, better border crossings, etc. Eventually, roughly two things happened. We discovered that all the buses were pretty much the same, all the routes were pretty much comparable and all the prices were pretty much what we were going to have to pay, so we opted for a bus that would get us out of town at 10 PM and take us as far as Cuenca.

We still had one social activity left in fair Quito, and that was a late lunchish gathering involving the SIT professors from Miriam and Dan's program: Fabian and Siena. This was held at a little middle-eastern joint near the Mariscal, and was thoroughly pleasant, though not as tasty as our brunch.

After this late almuerzo we headed to the bus station to wait, people watch, and catch snippets of overdubbed Big Daddy. Adam Sandler's overdubbed voice is a goofy thing to behold, and they really can't manage to adequately translate his nasaly humor into the big booming voice of the Spanish-speaking, leading actor. Here's a picture of a lady wearing some really creepy jeans in the bus terminal:


After strolling out to eat a most anemic hotdog, largely a pretext for using a bathroom for free, we sat some more, and then tried with increasing exasperation to figure out which bus we were supposed to board for Cuenca. Somehow, magic, luck, and determination swirled together, and poof we were aboard. Miriam snored gently by my side as I watched dubbed Anaconda (a film which is really better this way), contemplated just how low I'd have to amputate my legs in order to continue to travel by bus for the rest of the trip, and read the guidebook entry on deep vein thrombosis....


More to follow!

And for those of you interested in reading a blog that is updated regularly and with nauseating enthusiasm and hilarity, check out: potpied.blogspot.com


 
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